http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/22/dining/reviews/22brief1-002.html
The joke is that the French word for baby bottle (biberon) is also slang for a bottle of booze. The idea to conflate the two originated at Le Refuge des Fondus, in Paris, which La Cave is modeled after, down to the tightly set communal tables and benches that require clambering over your neighbors.
Sounds like a fun place to try next time I visit the Big Apple!
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